Al-Qalam 
A 75-km five-day hike starting from the Wild Coast Sun, along the shoreline of the Pondoland Coast, was a dream come true for Ahmed Motala of Johannesburg. Here is his story.
Pristine expansive beaches, waves crashing onto black rocks, cows lazing on the beaches, tall hills covered in green vegetation rising from the beaches and smiling Amapondo people in tiny remote villages. These images are forever etched in my memory.
Over five days, I was part of a small group that hiked along the wild coast of the Eastern Cape from Mpande beach northward to Mbotyi. Each day we walked about 12km. Our group consisted of four men and four women, between the ages of 30 and 67. On arrival at Mpande, views of the ocean from the hill were exhilarating and whales frolicking in the deep waters welcomed us.
At the pre-hike briefing, Mthobisi and Sikhona, trained, knowledgeable local guides, explained our route and the terrain, and reminded us to have at least two litres of water, our hiking boots and poles. We carried only what we needed during the hike and our luggage was transported each day by road to the next accommodation.
As this was my first multi-day hike, I did not know what to expect but was eager to get going soon after an early breakfast the next morning. At the river mouth at the bottom of the steep hill, the low tide allowed us to walk across the shallow Sinangwana River. I found the steep climb through the coastal forest arduous. At the top of the hill, I looked back at the beach, bay and river valley far below with a sense of accomplishment.
From sea level we climbed steep grass-covered hills to more than a hundred meters, at times having only tufts of grass for footholds. The climb seemed precarious at times. In the early afternoon, as we approached Mqaleni village, I felt a sense of relief. A sumptuous lunch awaited us and the mesmerising view of the Mngazana estuary brought me a sense of soulful peace.
Early the next morning, a small motorboat ferried us across the estuary. As we walked along yet another pristine beach, we noticed the golden sands intermingled with black dust that sparkled in the sun, proof that the area was rich in titanium and other minerals. Local communities are in constestation with the government and an Australian company over mining in the Xolobeni coastal area, which will permanently destroy this pristine area and the lifestyle of local communities. We noticed local women and children gathering mussels off the rocks during the spring tide. At the Umngazi river, we crossed by ferry and continued our hike until Sugarloaf rock where we stopped for lunch. In the afternoon, we reached our destination in Port St Johns.
At 7.30 the next morning, a river barge transported us to the Mzimvubu river mouth, where we disembarked to begin our third day of hiking. I was delighted to hear the calls of the African fish eagles circling high above the river. Along almost every beach, no matter how remote, we were greeted by a herd of cows lazily chewing.
We arrived at Ntafufu for a lunch of lobsters and grilled vegetables. Without a mobile network, our digital detox began.
The next morning, we crossed the Ntafufu river estuary in a canoe and walked between the forest and the ocean far below the cliffs. At our stop for the day in Manteku, I found the view breathtaking over the expansive ocean, the river estuary and valley framed by tall hills covered in green vegetation. In the evening, I absorbed the sounds of the ocean, the insects and the night birds, and observed the illuminated night sky.
On our last day, we crossed the Manteku River in a canoe. We entered the forest and began the gradual climb to the top of the hill, and walked along secluded beaches to our final destination in Mbotyi.
We had walked in places that can be reached only on foot along narrow cattle tracks. I learnt about the history and culture of the Amapondo nation, about the geography and ecology of the area. I also learnt about the fragility of the local ecosystem. Protecting the unspoilt wild coast and its valuable ecosystem is the responsibility of all South Africans.
*Ahmed booked with Single Track Adventures. The cost was R9800 per person, including shuttle from and to the Wild Coast Sun, accommodation and all meals.
